by Lazaros Lataniotis
The last 3 months, an Athenian art gallery down town, took the initiative to reform a part of it as a restaurant. This alternative restaurant is a first for the Greek food scene, hence the popularity it gained so soon. From its opening, all the Athenian food magazines supported it by writing numerous positive reviews. Its decoration, that combines harmoniously modern, “cubic” tables, traditional, hand made pillows and ancient Greek columns, was inspired by an old engraving dated from the mid 18th century. The small open kitchen gives the impression that you are visiting a friends’ house for dinner.
The engraving that inspired the decoration. The customers of a Greek, traditional "καφενείον" (caffeteria) are seperated in two different groups: the modern ones who wear "European" garments and the tradiotional ones who wear the taditional "foustanela".
From the 5th of October and until late December, it hosts a collective, named Troo Food Liberation, that specializes in cooking fresh, non animal and non genetic modified food and prepares new dishes each month. Thus, the previous months’ menus presented dishes such as Shitake mushroom soup with raw coconut oil, cashew nut cream garnished with rosemary, served with a homemade fresh bread roll, shot of blue green algae with orange juice, mint, and vanilla, ancient seed zea pasta with herb infused walnut meat and nut béchamel, served with seasonal poppy seed salad etc.
December’s menu, named Ancestral Wisdoms, combines Asian and Latin American ingredients, French techniques and Greek traditional recipes in a rather well balanced result. The dinner starts with the Grandma’s Creamy Carrot and Ginger Soup, served hot in a cup that you drink from. The soup seasoned only with a bit of pepper and ginger had a refreshing spiciness that bound perfectly with the carrots. The lack of salt implies the collective’s orientation in healthy cooking.
The carrot and ginger soup
Next dish was the Avocado Frolicking in Creamy Miso Dressing, savory and slightly salty thanks to the Miso Dressing. The sesame seeds on top of the creamy avocado added a crunchiness.
The Avocado with Miso sauce
The third starter was a Cabbage Leaf Hug with Quinoa and Chestnut. A Greek recipe, traditionally made with minced meat, given in a “Liberative” version. The quinoa seeds and the chestnut replaced the meat in the most perfect way with their consistency and flavour imitating the traditional feeling. The dish was completed with an oil based sauce.
The cabbage leaf hug
Before the main course a refreshing and high acidic lavender lemonade was served as a palette cleanser. For main course we had to chose between two vegan dishes. The first one was the Rainbow Roots Au Gratin with Steamed Leeks and Prunes in a sweetish dish, due to the carrots and the beetroots, that gave crunchy feeling. The slightly cooked vegetables, that had kept their flavour inside, added an al dente note to the dish.
The rainbow roots au gratin
Second choice was the fully flavoured Onion Tart with Macadamia Cheese. The savory cheese, on top of the crunchy but yet caramelized onions, left nothing non vegan to be desired.
The onion tart
Finally, for dessert we were served a slightly sweet Lotus Tart, with no sugar at all, but with trimmings of coconut which gave a sweet impression, accompanied by a mild Cacahuatli Chilli Shot.
The Lotus and coconut tart
Finally, as a good bye drink we were offered a mastiha based mojito, quite sweet and refreshing.
For more information about the upcoming menus see http://thebreederfeeder.blogspot.com/Tags: The breeder feeder, Troo Food Liberation